Compared to the Testamatta that proved more difficult during the blending phase, Bibi Graetz's 2018 Colore came together without a hitch, as he tells it. With this vintage, the Colore (with 9,000 bottles produced) has almost become a single-vineyard wine, since up to 90% of its fruit comes from old vines (these are majestic plants from 80 to 135 years old) in the high-altitude Lamole area where Bibi farms five hectares. The addition of Colorino to this Sangiovese-based wine has been reduced to a mere 5% in this vintage: "Just like a touch of lipstick," Bibi says. The Colorino grape adds noticeable lift and buoyancy in this vintage. Next to the Testamatta, you get more structure and backbone here, with deep and penetrating red berry fruit, ruby cherry, crushed aspirin, ferrous earth, crushed flowers and some of the fragrant steeping herbs used in Fernet-Branca. My only hesitation is that the wine takes long to yield on the bouquet, and I coaxed two bottles of Colore over two days before writing this note. As a result, I recommend pushing the drinking window forward by a few extra years to give the wine time to flesh out and open fully.

93 Wine Spectator

A plump yet vibrant style that embraces peach, melon, floral and subtle vanilla flavors. Creamy in texture, ending with uplifting elements of bitter grapefruit and iodine. Shows fine harmony and length. Bracing and minerally. Decant. Drink now through 2024. 65 cases made, 25 cases imported.

Producer

Bibi Graetz

Firstly, an artist and graduate of the Academia dell’Arte in Florence, Bibi Graetz started making wine in the late 1990s and has since become one of the Tuscany’s most inspired winemakers. Born and raised in Italy and without any formal training, Graetz produces wine at his family home in Fiesole, a castle called Castello di Vincigliata. He decided early on to focus on the production of native Tuscan varieties, mostly Sangiovese, but also Colorino and Canaiolo and a tiny bit of Malvasia Nera and Moscato Nero. The fruit is sourced from old-age vines (ranging from 30 to 60-years-old) around the Chianti Classico area, including Maremma, the island of Giglio and Montalcino. Vinification is carried out in open fermenters and the resulting wines are inky-black red in color exposing a spectacular range of intensity and ingenuity. His flagship wine, Testamatta, which roughly translates to “Hot Head”, is made entirely from old-vine Sangiovese and is a powerful red with notes of cherry and tobacco. Another fascinating feature of his wines are that all of their labels are designed by Graetz himself, ultimately inspired by the Tuscan sun. From artist to cult winemaker, Graetz’s wines get better and better with every vintage, they are certainly top collectible Tuscan wines.

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Colore 2018 300cl

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