96 By Robert Parker
This is the inaugural vintage of Marchesi Antinori's latest passion project. With only 5,790 bottles produced, the 2019 Nibbio della Sala is Chardonnay selected from a special vineyard located at a breezy 520 meters above sea level on the Castello della Sala property in Umbria. The site has cool northeastern exposures and thick forests at the lower elevations for temperature insulation. Since Antinori acquired the celebrated Friuli winery Jermann in 2021, the team has dedicated much time and energy to its white wine program. I don't think it's a stretch to say that this wine is born from the Jermann experience. For example, the role of malolactic fermentation is central to Nibbio della Sala. Most of the Chardonnay does complete its second fermentation to convert malic into lactic acid, thus creating smoothness and textural creaminess. However, a portion of the Chardonnay does not complete malolactic fermentation, and that element is key to creating the final blend. The percentage of tart fruit flavors can be adjusted according to vintage. In a sense, that element is comparable to the sharper element of Grechetto blended with softer Chardonnay in the Castello della Sala. Freshness is in fact the first thing you notice, as is the bandwidth and importance of the mouthfeel. There are many little accents like dried mint, sea salt, crushed mineral, saffron, spice and campfire ash that give lift to a core of creamy peach and melon. The wine remains long on the palate, with smooth softness and volume. This is a beautiful wine, undoubtedly, but I think we reserve the right to try a few more vintages to better understand the philosophy behind it. The 2019 vintage is a great place to start given the classic growing conditions, and I am encouraged and excited to try a few more future releases, especially the 2021 that gives reason to hope this wine can be even better. I am also curious to come back to the 2019 in a few years' time when the wine will flesh out and put on more textural weight. The score I have given this wine coincidently matches the highest score given to Castello della Sala, and that seems like a very good place to start.
This is the inaugural vintage of Marchesi Antinori's latest passion project. With only 5,790 bottles produced, the 2019 Nibbio della Sala is Chardonnay selected from a special vineyard located at a breezy 520 meters above sea level on the Castello della Sala property in Umbria. The site has cool northeastern exposures and thick forests at the lower elevations for temperature insulation. Since Antinori acquired the celebrated Friuli winery Jermann in 2021, the team has dedicated much time and energy to its white wine program. I don't think it's a stretch to say that this wine is born from the Jermann experience. For example, the role of malolactic fermentation is central to Nibbio della Sala. Most of the Chardonnay does complete its second fermentation to convert malic into lactic acid, thus creating smoothness and textural creaminess. However, a portion of the Chardonnay does not complete malolactic fermentation, and that element is key to creating the final blend. The percentage of tart fruit flavors can be adjusted according to vintage. In a sense, that element is comparable to the sharper element of Grechetto blended with softer Chardonnay in the Castello della Sala. Freshness is in fact the first thing you notice, as is the bandwidth and importance of the mouthfeel. There are many little accents like dried mint, sea salt, crushed mineral, saffron, spice and campfire ash that give lift to a core of creamy peach and melon. The wine remains long on the palate, with smooth softness and volume. This is a beautiful wine, undoubtedly, but I think we reserve the right to try a few more vintages to better understand the philosophy behind it. The 2019 vintage is a great place to start given the classic growing conditions, and I am encouraged and excited to try a few more future releases, especially the 2021 that gives reason to hope this wine can be even better. I am also curious to come back to the 2019 in a few years' time when the wine will flesh out and put on more textural weight. The score I have given this wine coincidently matches the highest score given to Castello della Sala, and that seems like a very good place to start.
