Bòggina B 2017 75cl

The 2017 vintage of Luca Sanjust’s Bòggina Bianco one again makes the case that this is one of the best whites of Tuscany. The complex perfumes of white pepper, chalk, flint, pear tart, green apples, white chocolate and smoke are stunning. Then comes an incredibly linear texture that’s so vertical it could cut your mouth in two. Cutting, sweeping acidity makes an indent in the palate, which it expertly fills with praline, almond and nutmeg undertones. Full-bodied and very, very long on the finish with a well-judged play between oxidation and reduction. Drink now or hold.

A cellar-worthy expression of Trebbiano Toscano, the 2017 Bòggina B sees extended aging on the lees to create a creamy and generous medium to full-bodied white wine. The Etruscan-named Bòggina opens to a light golden color followed by Mediterranean aromas of stone fruit, apricot and candied orange peel. That sur lie aging contributes to the honey-like fattiness or creaminess of the wine that is played up a notch higher in a hot and dry vintage such as this, which resulted in extra fruit concentration. Trebbiano, with its loose clusters, is harvested immediately before Sangiovese. There are documents that trace the existence of Trebbiano in this part of Tuscany back to the 13th century. In fact, the grape was widely popular back then, and fruit from the vineyards near the Petrolo estate fetched top dollar.<br/>Average production at Petrolo is 30,000 to 35,000 bottles, but only 17,000 bottles were released in the challenging 2017 vintage. Petrolo proprietor Luca Sanjust calls 2017 a "demoralizing vintage" for all, but hard work and perseverance has paid off handsomely. His wines from the 2017 vintage show great quality, if alas, extremely low quantities.<br/>