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Richebourg 2013 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côte de Nuits | Borgogna | Francia
CHF 2’043.10
Punteggi dei critici
95 Da Robert Parker
The 2013 Richebourg Grand Cru has a very expressive bouquet, perhaps more so than the Cros Parantoux at this primordial stage: a mixture of red and black fruit, bay and Earl Grey, later accompanied by rose-petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe red berry fruit intermingling with mint and sage, gradually building to a suave, minerally finish. This is an excellent Richebourg for the vintage, although I would be hedging my bets on the Cros Parantoux this year.<br/>Jean-Nicolas was away in Korea when I visited his domaine, a sign of how the popularity of Burgundy is now global (I did not inquire whether it was North or South.) So his assistant winemaker kindly escorted me through their portfolio (négoçiant and domaine) and the same leitmotifs of the 2013s were discussed: the high levels of malic acid and the need to chaptalize. The harvest here commenced on October 2 and finished around ten days later. Unlike others such as Cécile Tremblay, they did not eschew pigeage completely, and conducted around four or five to extract color and tannins. As usual, the malolactics were very late and in fact, one or two of them were still continuing, which explains a couple of omissions in my notes. Apparently, they showed plenty of reduction since the wines was unable to be racked and therefore work in the cellar during the second winter is important. This address consistently produces excellent wines, though I found the 2013s a little more difficult to get a handle on vis-à-vis other growers. Of the two “jewels," I just have a preference for their Cros Parantoux over their Richebourg, the former displaying exceptional delineation, razor-sharp tannins and an unfathomable depth that riveted you to the spot, whereas the latter was broad-shouldered, regal but less opaque. Elsewhere, the wines felt just a little disjointed at this early stage and need to knit together their constituent parts by the time of bottling next year<br/>
Produttore
Domaine Méo-Camuzet
Una delle grandi tenute di Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Méo-Camuzet fu fondata agli inizi del XX secolo da Étienne Camuzet, membro del Parlamento francese per la Côte d'Or dal 1902 al 1932. Camuzet selezionò e acquistò i vigneti che lo interessavano in modo particolare, oltre allo straordinario castello di Clos de Vougeot (egli fu l’ultimo singolo proprietario del castello, prima di donarlo alla Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin). Le sue proprietà furono prima tramandate alla figlia Maria Noirot e più tardi, nel 1959, a un parente più lontano, Jean Méo. Come molte altre proprietà in quel tempo, i vigneti erano curati da alcuni mezzadri (métayeurs) e il vino era venduto all’ingrosso ai commercianti. La tenuta iniziò a imbottigliare in proprio i vini soltanto nel 1985 e, quando nel 1989 arrivò il figlio di Jean, Jean-Nicolas, aveva già iniziato a trasformarsi veramente. Il nome di Henri Jayer, una delle personalità più inimitabili della Borgogna, sarà per sempre collegato a quello di Méo-Camuzet. Jayer infatti lavorò per anni come mezzadro per questa tenuta, fino alla pensione nel 1988, ma in seguito continuò a lavorarvi a lungo come consulente. La proprietà ha una serie di vini straordinaria, costituita da 25 denominazioni diverse, che comprende sia i vini prodotti in loco, sia i vini per i commercianti, venduti con l’etichetta Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeurs.