Clos des Lambrays 2013 75cl

The 2013 Clos des Lambrays is whole bunch as usual (whereas the Morey Saint Denis is destemmed) and raised in 50% new oak. Thierry Brouin assembled my sample from four barrels scattered around the cellar, since the ventilation at one end creates variance in maturation. It has a refined bouquet with crisp leafy red berry fruit, harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass, fine mineralité underneath. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This feels very harmonious with more energy and tension than the 2012, structured with a bright and vivacious finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a classy Clos des Lambrays 2013 that should age with panache.  The sale of the historic Clos des Lambrays last April to the LVMH luxury group sent shudders across the region, shudders that continue to reverberate. Does it portend a new chapter for Burgundy as multibillionaires start waving their checkbooks under the noses of what is in spiritual terms at least, a farming community? We will see. They’ll find much more resistance here than in acquiescent Bordeaux. What changes it will bring to Clos des Lambrays will be found out next year, but at least Thierry mentioned that he would be at the helm for at least the next three vintages. Sure, he’s in his mid-sixties now, but when I suggested that it might then be a time to retire, I got the impression that he has far more vintages in him than that. I was lukewarm about his 2012s when I tasted them last year, however, this was one grower where I was more taken by the 2013s (and I did taste the two vintages of the Grand Cru side by side.) “We started the harvest on 2 October and finished on 10 October,” he explained. “The vegetative cycle was affected by the threat of mildew and oïdium and a small amount of hail diminished their defenses as did some grillé berries. We stopped the harvest because of the rain and we made a big selection. In fact, we made 20-hectolitres of rosé from the sorting table that was pressed directly and vinified in stainless steel.” Readers should note that if you want to find this rosé you’ll have to go to Japan! “We cropped at 26hl/ha, which is much more than last year when it was just 15hl/ha,” he continued as I took a peak at the lower barrel cellar that had been completely empty last year. “That is still less than normal, around 35hl/ha.” As I said, the domaine’s reds are well worth seeking out this year, full of charm, freshness, vitality and terroir expression and not just the Grand Cru but the Village and Premier Crus. N.B. I did not get a chance to taste the whites.

Spicy and aromatic, featuring sandalwood, green olive, cedar and nutmeg notes, framing cherry and currant flavors. Crisp, taut and balanced, with fine tannins adding support on the finish. Still pretty raw, but has excellent potential. Best from 2019 through 2035. 100 cases imported. –BS