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Testamatta 2018 75cl

IGT | Toscana | Italia
CHF 81.10
Punteggi dei critici
97 James Sukling
Very subtle aromas of cherries, bark, black truffles and flowers. Hints of crushed stones. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and solid with a very tight, minerally structure. Very long and intense. Racy and bright at the end. Powerful, orange-peel and citrus-fruit undertones. Salty and minerally. This needs time to develop in the bottle. Extremely structured. A wine not to touch until after 2023.
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
Produttore
Bibi Graetz
Prima di tutto artista e diplomato all’Accademia d’Arte di Firenze, Bibi Graetz ha iniziato a produrre vino sul finire degli anni ‘90 e da allora è diventato uno dei produttori più ispirati di tutta la Toscana. Nato e cresciuto in Italia e senza alcuna preparazione di tipo formale, Graetz produce vini presso la casa di famiglia a Fiesole, un castello chiamato Castello di Vincigliata. Ha deciso fin da subito di concentrarsi sulla produzione di varietà autoctone toscane, soprattutto Sangiovese, ma anche Colorino e Canaiolo, con una piccola quantità di Malvasia Nera e Moscato Nero. Le uve provengono da vecchie viti (che vanno dai 30 ai 60 anni di età) della zona del Chianti Classico, nonché dalla Maremma, dall’Isola del Giglio e da Montalcino. La vinificazione è compiuta in vasche di fermentazione aperte e i vini che ne risultano presentano un colore rosso intenso, scuro come l’inchiostro, dispiegando uno straordinario ventaglio di forza e brillantezza. Il suo vino di punta, il Testamatta, è interamente prodotto da vecchie viti di Sangiovese ed è un rosso potente caratterizzato da note di ciliegia e tabacco. Un’altra caratteristica affascinante dei suoi vini risiede nel fatto che tutte le etichette sono ideate da Graetz stesso, ispirato in ultima analisi dal sole della Toscana. Da artista a winemaker di culto, i vini di Graetz migliorano di annata in annata e sono certamente fra i migliori vini toscani da collezione.