19 Rene Gabriel
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot. Dunkles, leicht mattes Granat. Wildes Bouquet, dezent animalische Aromenzüge aufweisend, Rauchnoten, Rehfleisch, Tabak, sehr intensiv, zu Kopf steigend. Im Gaumen dicht, fleischig, viel Rückhalt, die Tannine sind dicht und stützen den ganzen Gaumenraum, die Beeren sind reif, angenehm süss und durchaus im schwarzbeerigen Bereich. Kein Nullachtfünfzehnwein, sondern ein eigenwilliger Spezial-Toskaner. Hier sorgen Lodovico und Piero Antinori für einen gigantischen Toskana-Value. 19/20 trinken – 2029
90 Robert Parker
The 2011 Il Pino di Biserno embodies the heat of the vintage with ripe fruit tones, blackberry preserves, cherry cola and loads of luscious dark spice. The 2010 vintage has more focus and balance, but this warmer rendition offers its own appeal. The wine is more suited to near-term consumption thanks to its soft tannins and fruit-forward personality. The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Some 80% of the wine is aged in French barrique for 12 months.
I was able to spend an afternoon with Lodovico Antinori recently at his beautiful estate in Bibbona (just a stone’s throw from the Bolgheri municipality line). This is a magical place with softly rolling hills that stand at a slightly taller incline on this part of the Tuscan coast. Shining luminosity from the sky and reflected off the surface of the Mediterranean sea flood the landscape with golden sunshine. The property, planted to Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, is impeccably manicured. Michel Rolland is consultant in the winery. Lodovico has big plans for his estate, including an underground, gravity-flow winery. The architectural designs are set, but ground on the new project is not broken yet. His property has 47 hectares of vines that are ten years old. The young age of the plants is still a factor in hotter years (like 2011), where the wines tend to show overripe nuances.
90 Wine Spectator
A lean, muscular style, with intense black currant, black cherry, licorice, tobacco and iron flavors. The chewy, long finish features firm grip. Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2016 through 2022. 4,500 cases made.