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Porto Tawny Colheita 2003 75cl

DOC | Porto | Douro | Portugal
CHF 59.45
Évaluations et Scores
92 Robert Parker
The 2003 Colheita Tawny Port is a typical Douro blend bottled in 2016 with a long cork. It comes in with 118 grams per liter of residual sugar and 20.5% alcohol. For a relatively young tawny, this shows fine concentration and grip, with a youthful and lively finish. Burly and powerful, this opened up over several days, proving that it had some elegance, too. In most ways, for a young Colheita this is a big overachiever, more solid than one might expect and with more power. (Vintage 2003 was a very big and warm Douro vintage.) The spirits do announce their presence every now and then, my only quibble. Over some days (and when drunk at the proper cooler temperatures), it was fine, balanced by the concentration and richness here. Overall, this is pretty impressive in depth and power for what amounts to a 13-year-old tawny. With that long cork, you can lay it down a bit, too. You certainly don't have to, but this might acquire a bit more "suave" over the course of a decade or so.<br/>The last time I saw Noval's age-indicated tawnies, I was very impressed. Nothing has changed my mind. These are among my favorites—concentrated, classic and focused. The longer they sit in barrel, the longer they can be held, but wines with bar-top corks are not meant to be held, so dive in. They certainly don't need to be aged. Remember also: no aged tawny should be drunk anywhere near room temperature. Take it out of the fridge and let it warm in the glass. Try it at different places. See what you like best. Most would suggest that 58-62 degrees Fahrenheit will be the sweet spot, depending on the wine and your taste. Finally, the others are pretty fine, too. For a young Colheita, that 2003 has a lot of pop and concentration.
Producteur
Quinta Do Noval
Quinta do Noval est à l’origine du plus célèbre porto millésimé, le Naçional. Les traces de ce domaine remontent au début du 18ème siècle mais c’est à la fin du 19ème que la maison a réussi une prouesse : au lieu de surgreffer ses vignes sur des porte-greffes américains, pour lutter contre le fléau du phylloxera, elle a réussi par miracle à conserver des ceps d’origine portugaise, d’où ses flacons uniques de « Naçional ». Plus récemment, la maison a fait florès, tout comme les châteaux bordelais appartenant à la société d’assurances AXA Millésimes – tel Pichon-Longueville - sous la direction Christian Seely. Son vignoble, qui bénéficie d’un emplacement privilégié au cœur de la vallée du Douro, porte le même nom, Quinta do Noval, que la société de production de porto, fait unique dans la région. Ses cépages nobles s’agrippent à ses coteaux escarpés où ils prospèrent, donnant ainsi une très belle qualité de raisins. Sous l’égide d’António Agrellos, brillant directeur technique, la cuvée Naçional s’exprime de manière exubérante. Sa puissance et sa profondeur trouvent écho dans les notes terreuses et épicées à la pulpe de fruits noirs, typiques du Portugal, qui ne récompenseront les amateurs qu’au terme d’une bonne vingtaine d’années de garde.