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PSI 2013 75cl

DO | Ribera del Duero | Castilla y León | Espagne
Épuisé
Évaluations et Scores
91 Robert Parker
2013 was not an easy vintage in Ribera del Duero; it was a cold growing season and they had to work a lot to control the large amount of vineyards used for the production of the 2013 PSI. They had to do a lot of sorting, and do a gentle vinification and élevage in oak. The percentage of Garnacha has grown to around 10%, while the rest is, of course, Tempranillo. The wine has a fruit-driven profile, fresh and clean, developing some notes of flowers and red berries. When the year could have been something like 1993, 1997 or 2002, the last problematic vintages in Ribera, this 2013 resulted much better than any of those. It might have been a little reduced at first, but once it's in contact with air for some time, it opens up (so decanting the wine in advance might be a good idea), and is more approachable than the previous vintage. This could be a lighter year that drinks quite well and was a real triumph over nature. There are 190,000 bottles of this 2013. I visited Pingus (its two main vineyards, Barroso and San Cristobal) and tasted some lots of the extremely promising 2014 form barrel. I want to refrain myself from scoring such young wines as it should have some 16-20 more months in barrel, but it looks like a fantastic vintage that owner and winemaker Peter Sisseck compares to 1995, and thinks needs a long élevage. The key to 2014 was if you could harvest early, because there was rain later on. They had a problem of hail in the vineyards and thought they had lost the harvest, but they were able to recover from it and harvested some 15 barrels, when a normal year sees some 22. Anyway, I tasted 2012 in bottle; 2013 just before bottling (and a few weeks later a bottled sample); and a bottle of the first vintage, 1995, a wine that still feels young and has plenty of power, with developed aromas of tapenade and violets. 2012 represents the best wine Peter Sisseck has ever made (so far). Bravo!
Producteur
Dominio de Pingus
Malgré sa création relativement récente en 1995, Dominio de Pingus bénéficie déjà d’une grande expérience, lui permettant d’attirer de nombreux adeptes et de se hisser au rang de domaine culte à Ribera del Duero. Son propriétaire, Peter Sisseck, s’était déjà fait un nom en tant qu’œnologue de l’Hacienda Monasterio, avant de se porter acquéreur de plusieurs parcelles de vieilles vignes de tinto fino (tempranillo). Lorsqu’il s’occupe de ses propres vignes, Sisseck adopte une approche résolument moderne, basée sur la fermentation malolactique en barrique pour créer des vins souples à la texture veloutée. Ses efforts ont été largement fructueux, comme en témoignent les saveurs pures et intenses de fruits noirs, épicées même, caractérisant ses plus grands vins. Son ambition originale, à savoir produire « un vin espagnol identitaire exprimant son terroir… un vin de garage », s’est concrétisée, sa production étant aujourd’hui mondialement réputée. Son fleuron, Pingus, un 100% tempranillo produit en quantités extrêmement confidentielles, fait régulièrement parler de lui et bon an mal an, se classe parmi les meilleurs vins de l’appellation. Le domaine, primé à de nombreuses reprises, propose également des cuvées plus accessibles, Flor de Pingus et PSI. Ce dernier est issu d’un assemblage à dominante tempranillo et garnacha, ce qui donne un vin frais sur le fruit, à l’approche agréable.