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Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet 2007 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côtes de Beaune | Bourgogne | France
CHF 994.50
Évaluations et Scores
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
Producteur
Domaine Leflaive
La gestion actuelle du Domaine Leflaive est assurée par Brice de La Morandière, arrière petit-fils du fondateur Joseph Leflaive et représentant de la quatrième génération. C’est dans les années 1920 que Joseph a assumé l’énorme responsabilité de replanter, rénover et agrandir les vignes familiales à Puligny-Montrachet. Atteignant sa vitesse de croisière dans les années 1960 et 1970 sous la direction du fils de Joseph, Vincent, le domaine a vu sa réputation exploser grâce à une forte orientation qualitative. Dès lors, ses vins sont devenus extrêmement recherchés. Chaque génération a volé de succès en succès. La fille de Vincent, Anne-Claude, aujourd’hui disparue, a apporté sa pierre à l’édifice en introduisant des pratiques biodynamiques, sublimant encore plus la qualité des vins, déjà considérable. La biodynamie a contribué à faire ressortir les caractéristiques du terroir qui s’expriment à travers des vins équilibrés et structurés. Considéré comme le meilleur producteur bourguignon de blancs, ses vins affichent une clarté et une pureté éclatantes avec une dimension complexe.