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96 Robert Parker
he 2009 Montrachet has come together beautifully since I last tasted it from barrel. From barrel the 2009 was super-ripe and almost tropical but it seems to have settled down over the last year. There is still plenty of signature 2009 richness and ripeness, but the wine’s minerality is now much more present. A brilliant, textured finish rounds things out in style. Overall, the 2009 is a mid-weight Montrachet. I would love to see it age for several decades, but it takes a pretty courageous soul to age white Burgundy these days. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s 2009s have turned out just as brilliantly as I had hoped. The wines reflect the signature qualities of the year, but never lose their essential classicism. Long-time DRC fans know the domaine bottles in six-barrel lots, which naturally introduces a level of bottle variation that is not found in most other wines. I hope the massive amount of information that has recently come to light regarding counterfeit wines and their proliferation might be the catalyst for the domaine to consider bottling their wines in one homogenous lot, as is common for the vast majority of high-quality wines throughout the world. Once the domaine’s wines mature in 20-30 years it will be impossible to tell the difference between ‘normal’ bottle variation, poorly stored bottles and very good fakes. Certainly consumers who are willing and able to pay the prices these wines fetch are at the very least deserving of a consistent product.
96 Wine Spectator
Lovely aromas of lime blossom, citronella and peach introduce this rich yet elegant white, which is very pure and delineated, with a mineral essence, though less opulent than recent vintages.—Non-blind 2009 DRC tasting (February 2012). Best from 2014 through 2030. –BS
96 Robert Parker
he 2009 Montrachet has come together beautifully since I last tasted it from barrel. From barrel the 2009 was super-ripe and almost tropical but it seems to have settled down over the last year. There is still plenty of signature 2009 richness and ripeness, but the wine’s minerality is now much more present. A brilliant, textured finish rounds things out in style. Overall, the 2009 is a mid-weight Montrachet. I would love to see it age for several decades, but it takes a pretty courageous soul to age white Burgundy these days. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s 2009s have turned out just as brilliantly as I had hoped. The wines reflect the signature qualities of the year, but never lose their essential classicism. Long-time DRC fans know the domaine bottles in six-barrel lots, which naturally introduces a level of bottle variation that is not found in most other wines. I hope the massive amount of information that has recently come to light regarding counterfeit wines and their proliferation might be the catalyst for the domaine to consider bottling their wines in one homogenous lot, as is common for the vast majority of high-quality wines throughout the world. Once the domaine’s wines mature in 20-30 years it will be impossible to tell the difference between ‘normal’ bottle variation, poorly stored bottles and very good fakes. Certainly consumers who are willing and able to pay the prices these wines fetch are at the very least deserving of a consistent product.
96 Wine Spectator
Lovely aromas of lime blossom, citronella and peach introduce this rich yet elegant white, which is very pure and delineated, with a mineral essence, though less opulent than recent vintages.—Non-blind 2009 DRC tasting (February 2012). Best from 2014 through 2030. –BS
Producteur
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Vous voici en présence du domaine le plus emblématique de Bourgogne, sinon de France voire du monde. Fort du monopole des deux plus grands vignobles – la Romanée-Conti et La Tâche – et d’une collection généreuse de vignes au sein de Vosne-Romanée et au-delà, cette propriété a su s'imposer tout en restant discrète et même modeste. C’est Aubert de Villaine qui dirige le navire - copropriété des familles Villaine et Leroy-Roch-, depuis 1974. Mais les origines de la Romanée-Conti sont bien plus anciennes, remontant au XIIIe siècle, lorsque les premières vignes furent plantées par les moines de Saint-Vivant. La viticulture biologique a été adoptée dans les années 1980, préambule à l’introduction de la biodynamie dans les années 1990. C'est sans doute aussi le domaine le plus célèbre de la région pour la mise en œuvre (depuis toujours) de la fermentation en grappes entières. Cette technique bien établie a été écartée par Henri Jayer, mais a inspiré bien d'autres vignerons ces dernières années. Allen Meadows, sans doute l'expert et critique le plus averti au monde en matière de Bourgogne, n'a décerné une note parfaite qu’à un seul vin - le Romanée-Conti 1945.