Harlequin 2008 150cl

A ripe, rich style, yet well-balanced and juicy throughout, with hints of treacle and smoke underscoring sun-dried cherry, date and dried strawberry fruit, and a thread of ground spice and graphite unraveling on the silky palate through the chewy, lasting finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and others. Drink now through 2028. 4 cases imported. –AN <br/>

The 2008 Harlequin is a difficult wine to pin down. The blend consists of 15 grapes, both white and red: Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon, Caberent Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Teroldego, Croatina, Oseleta, Sangiovese and Marzemino. The only thing missing is the kitchen sink. It ages in new barrique for 48 months and is packaged in a very heavy glass bottle. This is not a wine that will appeal to everyone. Its darkness and thick extraction are way over the top. But if you have a palate for the big (similar to Dal Forno), you will enjoy the super smooth texture and decadent fruit layers. There is a noticeable touch of sweetness on the close.<br/><br/>Celestino Gaspari is the proverbial square peg that does not fit into a round hole. His wines are radically different from basically all the other wines to be found in Valpolicella. With highly individualistic brands like Romano Dal Forno, Tedeschi and Quintarelli as neighbors, this is no easy feat. Nonetheless, Celestino and his winery partners have carved a highly expressive stylistic niche that relies on thick extract, long barrique aging and high alcohol. Zymè enjoys a steady cult following and for good reason.

A full-throttle red with loads of ripe-fruit and vanilla character. A little too much for me, but some people may love the old-school style. Drink now.