92 Robert Parker
The white-golden colored NV Aÿ Grand Cru Fût de Chêne Brut MV12 is a 70/30 multi-vintage blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, both from Aÿ. Based mostly (70%) on the 2012 harvest, the MV12 contains 30% of reserve wines from the “reserve perpetuelle.” The wine offers a deep, pure and complex yet slightly oaky bouquet with ripe fruit, almond, nuts and spicy notes of toasted rice and a touch of mocha. Pure and very fresh on the front palate, this is a full-bodied, vital, elegant and highly refined cuvée that was entirely vinified in Argonne oak (30% of which was new) for 12 months. The persistent, well-structured finish is clean, fresh and pure, with a lovely peach flavor, but the oak is a characteristic feature in this cuvée that was disgorged in October 2017. Total production: 30.000 bottles. Tasted from 4S54C in April 2018. Henri Giraud MV series is the continuity of the Fût de Chêne signature cuvée whose last vintage was the 2000 (after 1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998 and 1999). The first "MV" was based on 2005 and released end of 2012. After the MV05, MV07, MV09 and MV10 the MV12 is only the fifth release of this in every respect (vinification, taste and packaging) unique Champagne.<br/>Henri Giraud is one of the smallest Champagne houses and is fully family owned. The boutique winery in Aÿ (Marne Valley) is led by CEO Claude Giraud, who combines "science and experience with passion and expertise,” and thus is highly innovative and handcrafts Champagnes in a unique style under the direction of Chef du Cave Sébastien Le Golvet. Many of the cuvées (always with a large percentage of Pinot Noir, except for the newer Blanc de Craie, which is a pure Chardonnay) are fermented and aged on the full lees for six to 12 months in Argonne oak barrels before the aging in bottles that takes two to eight years. The alternative to oak? Terracotta amphorae shaped like eggs! Since November 2016, there is no stainless steel vat in the "New Generation Cellar" in Aÿ. Oak and terracotta vats not only allow the wines to breathe, but their small sizes also "boost the interaction between the wine and its entire sediment that contains antioxidants and aromatic precursors,” Claude Giraud explained during the opening of the new cellar one and a half years ago. As a result of the long aging of the vins clairs on the full lees and the partly excessive use of new oak, the cuvées from Henri Giraud have a very particular style whose oak influence is prominent rather than the expression of fruit and terroir. Here, the Argonne Forest seems to be the terroir, and it's up to you if you like the full-bodied, intense, structured, rather vinous style or not. Although I have never tasted really matured wines after disgorgement, I suppose the best will age very, very well and will always be great wines with food. Also, compared to the wines I tasted some years ago, the oak influence has been reduced a bit. The wines have become purer, finer and fresher, at least that's my impression without having tasted the styles side by side. There are some less-oaky cuvées produced here as well. Just try the impressive Dame-Jane Rosé, the charming and finessed Esprit Nature or the delicious Hommage à François Hémart. At the end of last year, the 2008 Argonne Brut was released. It's a rare and spectacular cuvée that comes in equally spectacular packaging that was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Giraud called the box, which looks like a stylized tree, "the epitome of purity." If you can't (or don't want to) afford the fabulously expensive wine or simply can't find it the store, you should at least Google it! Getting it out of the box is an adventure for itself.
