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17 Rene Gabriel
Arrivage (17/20): Offenes, leicht pflanzliches Bouquet; trotz einer klar akzentuierten Süsse trägt das Nasenbild eine unlogische Sauvignon-Aromatik im Stil eines Loire-Süssweines, die Botrytis ist nur sehr spärlich vorhanden. Im Gaumen sehr elegant, mollige Konturen; durch die enorme Fettpräsentation wirkt die Süsse im Moment etwas plump und wird mit einer leicht scharf wirkenden Säure polarisierend balanciert, im Extrakt zeigen sich eher kalte, mineralisch kalkige Spuren, gegen den Schluss wird der Wein ölig und durch den Überhang an Süsse fast etwas marmeladig. Wird noch relativ viel Zeit brauchen und hat dabei bessere Entwicklungschancen als andere Vorgänger aus kleinen Yquem-Jahren (z.B. 1985 und 1987). 98: Helle Farbe. Intensives Botrytis-Bouquet mit hellen gelben Früchten; Karambole, dahinter Melasse. Im Gaumen mittelgewichtig, aber mit gut stützender Säure. Trinkt sich jung schon recht gut. trinken ( - 2030)
17 Rene Gabriel
Arrivage (17/20): Offenes, leicht pflanzliches Bouquet; trotz einer klar akzentuierten Süsse trägt das Nasenbild eine unlogische Sauvignon-Aromatik im Stil eines Loire-Süssweines, die Botrytis ist nur sehr spärlich vorhanden. Im Gaumen sehr elegant, mollige Konturen; durch die enorme Fettpräsentation wirkt die Süsse im Moment etwas plump und wird mit einer leicht scharf wirkenden Säure polarisierend balanciert, im Extrakt zeigen sich eher kalte, mineralisch kalkige Spuren, gegen den Schluss wird der Wein ölig und durch den Überhang an Süsse fast etwas marmeladig. Wird noch relativ viel Zeit brauchen und hat dabei bessere Entwicklungschancen als andere Vorgänger aus kleinen Yquem-Jahren (z.B. 1985 und 1987). 98: Helle Farbe. Intensives Botrytis-Bouquet mit hellen gelben Früchten; Karambole, dahinter Melasse. Im Gaumen mittelgewichtig, aber mit gut stützender Säure. Trinkt sich jung schon recht gut. trinken ( - 2030)
89 Robert Parker
Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 1991 Chateau d’Yquem was actually not affected by the frosts like everywhere else in Bordeaux, damaging 30% of the vines, predicating a two-track ripening cycle. This was not too much of a problem to overcome since bunches are picked one by one. Picking commenced on September 19, with half the crop being picked over five days between October 21 and 25 after a spell of intermittent showers. It has a lighter color than the 1995. The nose displays moderate intensity with light waxy scents that would benefit from more vigor. The palate is well-balanced but there is a distinct sense of the wine being a little one-dimensional and it is missing some tension, especially toward the finish. Although this is a commendable Sauternes, there is a bitterness and a slight rawness that cannot be ignored. Still, it deserves a light applause considering the growing season. Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2014.
89 Robert Parker
Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 1991 Chateau d’Yquem was actually not affected by the frosts like everywhere else in Bordeaux, damaging 30% of the vines, predicating a two-track ripening cycle. This was not too much of a problem to overcome since bunches are picked one by one. Picking commenced on September 19, with half the crop being picked over five days between October 21 and 25 after a spell of intermittent showers. It has a lighter color than the 1995. The nose displays moderate intensity with light waxy scents that would benefit from more vigor. The palate is well-balanced but there is a distinct sense of the wine being a little one-dimensional and it is missing some tension, especially toward the finish. Although this is a commendable Sauternes, there is a bitterness and a slight rawness that cannot be ignored. Still, it deserves a light applause considering the growing season. Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2014.
88 Wine Spectator
Lacks a bit of elegance for Yquem. Light gold in color, with honey, marmalade, dried apricot and vanilla aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, rather fat really, with an oily texture. Medium-sweet, with a burnt almond and molasses finish. A bit rustic. This might improve with age, but why wait? Drink now. ?JS
88 Wine Spectator
Lacks a bit of elegance for Yquem. Light gold in color, with honey, marmalade, dried apricot and vanilla aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, rather fat really, with an oily texture. Medium-sweet, with a burnt almond and molasses finish. A bit rustic. This might improve with age, but why wait? Drink now. ?JS
Producer
Château d'Yquem
Located 55 kilometers south of the town of Bordeaux, the charming 400-year-old Château d'Yquem has a breathtaking view of the Sauternes valley. This notorious estate is recognized around the world as one of the greatest sweet wine producers in France. After over two centuries of ownership, the Lur Saluces family sold the property to LVMH in 1999. The sunbathed vineyards, covering over 100-hectares enjoy refreshing morning mists, and are precisely harvested berry by berry. Bottled without filtration, the wines spend over three years in new-oak barrels. Vintner Pierre Lurton, the former director of Château Cheval Blanc has looked over the house vinification since 2004. Unrivaled for its combination of lace, power and feminine prowess, d’Yquem wines easily defend their Premier Cru Supérieur status. With an impressive production, the wines remain at the top, their supreme quality is culminated by the Grand Vin, Yquem.