Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo 2010 75cl

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino ushers forth a new stylistic chapter in the wines of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi. Gone are those overt oak notes of cinnamon, dark chocolate and moist chewing tobacco. Instead, this fresh and streamlined wine renews its effort to put Sangiovese in prime positioning. The bouquet shows dark cherry, ginger and grilled herb. Instead of immediacy, this wine is engineered for longevity and that comes as a surprise considering that Castelgiocondo has historically been one of the biggest advocates of what is now dubbed "international" Brunello. With the 2010 vintage, this estate goes back to its traditional roots. The wine is young now and needs about five more years to complete its cellar evolution.  Tenuta di Castelgiocondo is the celebrated estate owned by Marchesi de' Frescobaldi. The Frescobaldi family makes two lines of wines from Montalcino. First is Castelgiocondo and second is the decidedly more glitzy and glamorous Luce executed in a very oak-forward, soft style. Frescobaldi gets a lot of heat for producing "modern" or "international" expressions of Brunello. Given that context, I must say that this tasting was fascinating. Castelgiocondo is clearly at a crossroads between its previous wines and a more "traditional" approach that embraces greater elegance and finesse. This rite of passage could not be made clearer than when you taste the 2010 base Brunello di Montalcino next to the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Ripe al Convento. These two wines are symbolic of the winery's transition. 

This fresh version brims with cherry, mineral, briar and tobacco aromas and flavors. Works toward equilibrium, with solid tannins, and finishes with a mouthwatering impression. Best from 2019 through 2035. 28,889 cases made. –BS