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95 Robert Parker
Spain's most consistently great winery continues to turn out exciting wines. There are four Unico Reservas currently in the market. The 1981 Unico Reserva is more restrained than the 1982 or 1985, with a personality similar to a classic Medoc (i.e., Lafite-Rothschild). Lead pencil, tar, smoke, black currant, and weedy tobacco notes are followed by a medium-bodied wine with beautiful fruit, a supple texture, and a long finish. While not as flamboyant or expansive as either the 1982 or 1985, it is a classy, complex offering with an intriguing lead pencil/smoky note in its aromatics, flavor, and finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years.
93 Wine Spectator
This beautiful red from Spain would put many a Bordeaux from the same vintage to shame. It's got a deep, youthful color, alluring spice and cherry pie aromas and a supple yet concentrated palate with cherry, spice and tobacco flavors. The tannins are softening, yet will still match with food, and the finish is long and spicy. Drink now through 2005. 4,300 cases made. ?TM
Producer
Bodegas Vega Sicilia
Spain’s most famous red wine producer, Vega Sicilia consistently produces the best distinct blends from the Ribera del Duero, in both style and approach. Located in Valbuena de Duero, the estate has been in the Álvarez family since 1982, and has remained the largest in the country, with about 1000 hectares of property – 25% of which are planted to vines. Their top wine, Unico, is a delicious blend of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Unico benefits from extended cask-maturation time that has been perfected to preserve amble freshness in the finished wine. Then there is also the exceptional Reserva Especial, a non-vintage, which is a blend of the top selections, and is traditionally aged for 10 years consisting of mostly Tinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The second wine coming from Ribera del Duero’s most influential vineyard is Valbuena, which has more present fruit character, a cuvée of Tinto Fino, Malbec and Merlot.