Conteisa 2011 75cl

The 2011 Langhe Nebbiolo Conteisa is an irresistible wine with enormous depth, beauty and penetration. It sweeps over the palate in opulent waves with dark fruit, spice, leather and grilled herbs. It also shows a distinct balsam personality with cola and dried violets that give the wine a beautiful sense of aromatic lift and buoyancy. Langhe Conteisa is made with Nebbiolo (and a tiny part Barbera) from the Cerequio vineyard in La Morra. The 2011 vintage is slightly broader than past vintages, but this wine promises a long drinking evolution regardless.  My meeting with Angelo and Gaia Gaja revealed a few surprises including a fascinating look at the 1996 Langhe Gaia & Rey Chardonnay tasted from magnum. Gaja's long-time winemaker, Guido Rivella retired last year. He had consulted with the Gaja family since 1970 and today Alessandro Albarello has taken over as winemaker. One subtle change in approach concerns the DOCG Barbaresco. In the past, the wine represented a blend of fruit from 14 vineyards. With the 2012 edition, that number has been taken down to eight instead in an effort to better underline the wine's territorial identity. Gaia Gaja describes this break from tradition as "a very difficult decision" to make.