Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2017 75cl

This is a very interesting wine that tests a cool growing site in a hot vintage. The Castello Romitorio 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta comes from a high-altitude vineyard with dark soils and pockets of slate and shale. It is isolated in the mountains and surrounded by thick forests and Mediterranean shrub oak. That combination of unique elements has shaped a very articulate and attuned expression that boasts vibrant fruit, smoke, spice and wet stone. The finish is sharp and especially focused with age-worthy tannins and bright acidity.

The remarkably fresh 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta opens slowly, blossoming in the glass to offer a captivating mix of dusty rose, spicy citrus, black cherry and smoky crushed stone. This is cool-toned yet powerful in feel, fleshing out across the palate with an elegant display of mineral-tinged tart berries under an air of sweet florals, as fine tannins settle in. It turns quite savory and slightly salty through the finale, tapering off with unprecedented length, along with a staining of primary concentration offset by residual acids that keep the mouth watering. Mixing the most delicate and vivid fruit with the body of a well-muscled dancer, this leaves me very impressed. The 2017 Filo di Seta is one of the top wines of this difficult vintage.