Brunello di Montalcino 2012 75cl

Effusive aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry, floral, mineral and tobacco are at the center of this linear, vibrant red. Well-structured, this offers terrific length on the sinewy finish. Best from 2020 through 2035. From Italy.—B.S.

Casanova di Neri is one of the shining stars of Montalcino. Each successive vintage released brings us renewed understanding of the focus and the dedication demonstrated by the father and son team that operates this estate. The winemaking style is impeccable and elaborate. There's a higher degree of texture and richness on display, and this is not often the case with Sangiovese. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino opens to thick layers of dark fruit, mocha, spice, leather, cigar box and pipe tobacco. A distant note of dried fruit or blackberry confit adds softness and sweetness. Give this wine a few more years to flesh out and integrate.<br/>The big news from Casanova di Neri is that Consulting Enologist Carlo Ferrini no longer works with the estate. This came as a big shock to me mostly because the news was kept under wraps for an unusually long time. Carlo's departure occurred years ago, but was only made public last year. His last vintage with this high performing estate was 2010 (the vintage that earned 100 points with the Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova). It's not clear who, if anyone, has replaced him. Moving forward, Giacomo's son Giovanni has taken on a greater role at the winery for sure. I cannot help but notice a stylistic change with this new set of releases. Two years ago, this was the masculine wine to Il Marroneto's feminine wine in a ying-yang dynamic that characterizes the two main schools of the appellation. The tables have been unexpectedly turned in 2012. Casanova di Neri has now produced the wine that feels more streamlined and subtle. I'm not sure what to make of the about-face and will continue to monitor this trend in vintages to come. Casanova di Neri makes 73,000 bottles of its 2012 Brunello di Montalcino and 64,000 bottles of the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova.