Champagne Brut Reserve NV 75cl

Racy acidity and chalk-tinged minerality define this sleek Champagne, while the fine, satiny mousse imparts a sense of finesse and carries flavors of crushed blackberry, toast, licorice and mandarin orange peel. Well-spiced, mouthwatering finish. Disgorged December 2015. Drink now through 2020. 5,416 cases made.  –AN

Pinot noir and chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, this has strong pinot noir influence with wild red berry fruit aromas as well as brioche and woody, foresty notes. The palate walks a clever line of tartness and flavor that is right in the red fruit zone. This is full of life. Twists savory into hazelnut and pastry at the finish. Drink now – this is terrific value.

The NV Extra Brut Reserve, based on 2008, shows just how compelling the vintage is. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks and delicate fruit inform this beautifully balanced, harmonious wine. The Extra Brut Reserve isn’t big or obvious, rather it is a Champagne that impresses for its energy and pure focus. Ethereal, high-toned hints of Mirabelle plums, kirsch and crushed flowers linger on the sublime finish. The Extra Brut Reserve is equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay – the same blend as the Brut Reserve – with one more year in bottle. Dosage was 2 grams/liter. Disgorged November 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Bereche was a clear standout among my visits earlier this year. The wines are loaded with distinctiveness and character across the board. Raphael Bereche is young, but his sheer enthusiasm and conviction are likely to take him far. The functional cellar reflects a minimalist aesthetic that focuses on non-interventionalist farming and winemaking. Partial vinification in barrel, ambient yeasts and blocked malolactic fermentations are choices that inform these gorgeous wines. Bereche vinifies his vineyards separately, which makes it possible to taste the various parcels from barrel or tank just after the harvest, a la Burgundy. Bereche is one of a small number of producers who prefer to age their top wines on the cork (instead of crown capsule), a time-consuming, painstaking process that is just one example of the total commitment to quality that is the rule here. Bereche believes aging on the cork results in wines that are more complex and integrated. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Unfortunately, there is no Rose this year, as the estate is changing their approach with that wine. A new release is scheduled for 2013. Still, there are plenty of other gorgeous wines to choose from in this fabulous lineup. Importers: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, Valley View Wines, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (877) 888-5088; A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by: Galaxy Wines, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 248-9493