97 Robert Parker
Entering the arena of barely-wines, the now-bottled Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Selection de Grains Trie Speciale spent two years fermenting plus an additional year in cask thereafter. Deeply-toasted walnut, honey, marzipan, caramel, and notes of exotic, aromatic woods lend the aromas a very dark, positively oxidized cast. Given the nature of those aromas – not to mention the wine’s 400 (!) grams of residual sugar – it comes to the palate with shocking vivacity; a cooling aura of mint and chamomile, glazed apricot akin to Esszencia; and a saliva-liberating salinity. Hints of toasted coconut and vanilla from the barrel manage to integrate themselves into the metaphorically dark, toasty elements that also persist in this wine’s splendidly multi-faceted and dynamically interactive finish. The dazzling complexity and the fascinating alternation of electric acidity and dark, torrification confound one’s expectations of wine with Esszencia-like analytic parameters. This will probably last for the better part of half a century.
Tasting the Zind-Humbrecht collections armed with what one knows of these vintages from most other establishments, both the 2008s and 2009s will harbor surprises. A number of 2008s are ornery in finished acidity, and some are more marked by botrytis than most other exemplars of their vintage from top addresses, this occasionally taking the form of fungal notes and piquancy that some tasters may find off-putting. The 2008 harvest began here already on September 23, lasting exactly one month. Selectivity in October – especially with Pinot Gris – consisted, explained Humbrecht, more in the careful removal of healthy bunches to insure some dry wines, with the remaining crop being left until later, the opposite of what more usually happens and at many other top-quality Alsace (or German) estates – notwithstanding the literal meaning of the expression “vendange tardive.” “Gewurztraminer was the last to ripen,” notes Humbrecht, and presumably for that reason grape sugars were very high by the time he picked, making for a collection nearly all of which exhibits V.T.-like sweetness. “It was almost easier and more sensible to make S.G.N. this vintage than V.T.,” remarks Humbrecht by way of explaining why he rendered six of the former and only one 2008 wine in the latter category. “If there had been pressure to harvest,” he notes, “then we would have had V.T.s instead.” The majority of 2008 Rieslings – as well as the Pinot Blanc and two Muscats – were not bottled until February, 2010 on account of their high acidity and/or sluggish fermentations. But most of those wines underwent malo and finished dry or virtually so. (The yeasts and beneficial bacteria may have found it tough working in such a low pH medium, but – eventually – they succeeded.) Yet even in early-harvested instances, Humbrecht says that the proportion of malic acidity – which thereafter diminished – was never higher than one-third. Most of the 2008 vintage Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, even including the S.G.N.s, were bottled already in September, 2009.
The surprise on tasting the Zind-Humbrecht 2009s is an entirely pleasant one. The exceptional expressiveness of so many of these wines – even if Olivier Humbrecht admits that “they aren’t always perfectly precise or pure” – is surely in large part a tribute to vineyard management that permitted such a substantial portion of so large a crop to be picked unusually early, yet expressively ripe, although, a few sites succumbed to fortunately noble rot. Among practices to which Humbrecht points as relevant to his 2009 quality is his elimination in recent years of vine hedging to achieve earlier and more uniform flavor ripeness without excess grape sugar. Instead, his crew now lets the tips grow and then laboriously ties or tucks them back into the canopy, an approach for which fellow-proponent of biodynamics Lalou Bize-Leroy has become well-known. Against a background in vintage 2009 of wi
96 Wine Spectator
This amber-colored SGN is loaded with herb and spice accents—nutmeg, myrrh, clove and Chartreuse-like medicinal herbs—that add detail to flavors of peach and apricot jam, apple sauce, honeycomb, sweet smoke and spiced nuts. A thick, unctuous wine, but very bright and tangy nonetheless, with a fine backbone of intense acidity. A unique expression of both grape and style. Offers more with each sip. Drink now through 2027. 100 cases made. –AN
