Montrachet 2006 75cl

From the Chassagne side of this grand cru ? one of two parcels being terraced, upper-elevation ? the Prieur 2006 Montrachet displays an impressive aromatic layering of saline and crushed stone minerality; citrus oil; ripe peach; and musky, decadent floral perfume, like narcissus and fading lilies. A similar complexity prevails on the voluminous palate, albeit with some disturbingly obvious notes of lees and resinous new wood that will hopefully integrate after bottling. A deep nuttiness enhances the sense of depth. This finishes like a veritable force of nature, with no lack of energy to match its weight and its dense layers of flavor, but a bit inelegant and unrefined. I would anticipate at least 8-10 years of fascinating evolution during which it should reveal its full glory. (The less-intriguing 2005 combines fat and richness with an almost red wine-like sense of structure and grip, although it too displays rather obvious woodiness.)