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Roda Reserva 2010 75cl

DOCa | Rioja | Espagne
Épuisé
Évaluations et Scores
91 Robert Parker
Against all odds I gave the edge to the 2009 over the 2010 Roda Reserva, A blend of Tempranillo with 10% Graciano. This serious and very spicy wine mixes red and black fruit with an aniseed touch that slowly grows in the glass, serious and concentrated, ripe and fresh and getting closer to the profile of Roda I. It is starting to develop complexity and takes a little bit longer than the 2009 to unfurl its aromas and juicy palate, with very fine tannins. This is accessible today, but it will be even better with time in bottle. 118,795 bottles were produced.<br/><br/>I met with general director Agustín Santolaya to taste Roda's latest releases. He's been there with the team since 1992 and they are still the same. The project is very much about continuity, and very much about common sense and (updated) tradition: all the wines are fermented in oak vats, all natural yeast. Santolaya thinks that to be classic you need to start being modern; López de Heredia, when they started were utterly modern and innovative. Their wines clearly show the Rioja character as they age in bottle. We always discuss the recent vintages a bit, and how the older wines are evolving. 2013 is globally acknowledged as a difficult vintage for Rioja, but for him 2014 is also a complicated and heterogeneous vintage with a lot of rain during the harvest, perhaps as difficult as 2013, because of the rain during the harvest. Of course, 2013 was cold, rainy, and extremely difficult. 2012 is fresher than 2011 and with more rain and he compares it to 2006. Having opened the comparisons, he tells me that 2011 could be similar to 2005. 2008 was truly an Atlantic and cold vintage and it might be somewhat similar to 1997.<br/>The only "recent" change is Sela, born in 2008, as the vineyards they planted early on were already aged 15 to 25 years and the grapes they produced deemed good enough to carry the Roda name. There are two vineyards in Haro (90,000 bottles ) with the idea to obtain a more approachable wine, fine and drinkable, matured exclusively in used barrels. Again, this is a project about stability and consistency, even though their wines often contradict the general idea I have about vintages and I find myself preferring wines that, on paper, would not be my favorite. That's the beauty of vintages.<br/><br/>
91 Wine Spectator
Cherry, tea, tobacco and spice flavors mingle in this firm, focused red. Shows good density and balance, with juicy acidity and a spicy finish. Traditional style. Drink now through 2025. 600 cases imported. –TM
Producteur
Bodegas Roda
Producteur nouvelle vague le plus en vue, Bodegas Roda fait désormais figure de référence incontournable, au plan national comme à l’international. Bodegas Roda détient 76 hectares le long de la rivière Èbre, à Haro, berceau de la DOCa Rioja. Cette superficie imposante accueille majoritairement du tempranillo complété par quelques pieds de graciano et de garnacha. La création du domaine en 1987 ne correspond pas à l’âge des vignes, plus que trentenaires. Désormais bien enracinés, ces plants donnent des vins d’une complexité et d’une minéralité typées. Mario Rotllant s’est lancé dans l’aventure avec une idée fixe, celle d’élaborer des Rioja totalement à part. S’appuyant sur une équipe enthousiaste, dont le directeur général Agustín Santolaya, son expert viticole Isidro Palacios Negueruela, et son œnologue expérimenté Carlos Díez De La Concepción, Bodegas Roda a rapidement pris forme. La société n’a pas lésiné sur les moyens, investissant lourdement, de la vigne à la cave, dans une fusion parfaite entre modernité et tradition. Les installations de vinification, à l’architecture contemporaine, sont dotées des meilleurs équipements, tandis que les pratiques durables déployées dans la vigne complètent merveilleusement l’ensemble. Cette propriété gérée dans le souci du détail produit deux Reservas remarquables : Roda 1, fleuron de la gamme, un 100% tempranillo puissant et structuré ; et Roda, un tantinet plus léger mais néanmoins d’un niveau qualitatif supérieur à celui d’un second vin classique.