91 Wine Spectator
Fragrant with brioche and apple blossom notes, this vibrant Champagne is well-cut, showing a finely detailed bead and layering a spicy thread through flavors of baked apple, candied mandarin orange peel and grated ginger. Disgorged April 2016. Drink now through 2020. 8,350 cases made. –AN
90 Robert Parker
Giraud's easy-drinking NV Esprit Nature Brut is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay and 50% of reserve wines matured in small casks made of oak from the forest of Argonne and in ovoid vats. It displays a bright golden color and a terribly clear, fresh and pure bouquet of white fruits, sweet cherries and crushed stones. The wine is light, fresh and round on the palate, where it is indeed pretty charming and far from bone dry and reveals remarkable finesse and lightness. This is a beautiful aperitif and party wine that keeps the conversation going. I would drink it young and fresh, with all its current spirit. Disgorged August 2017; tasted April 2018. 100.000 bottles made.<br/>Henri Giraud is one of the smallest Champagne houses and is fully family owned. The boutique winery in Aÿ (Marne Valley) is led by CEO Claude Giraud, who combines "science and experience with passion and expertise,” and thus is highly innovative and handcrafts Champagnes in a unique style under the direction of Chef du Cave Sébastien Le Golvet. Many of the cuvées (always with a large percentage of Pinot Noir, except for the newer Blanc de Craie, which is a pure Chardonnay) are fermented and aged on the full lees for six to 12 months in Argonne oak barrels before the aging in bottles that takes two to eight years. The alternative to oak? Terracotta amphorae shaped like eggs! Since November 2016, there is no stainless steel vat in the "New Generation Cellar" in Aÿ. Oak and terracotta vats not only allow the wines to breathe, but their small sizes also "boost the interaction between the wine and its entire sediment that contains antioxidants and aromatic precursors,” Claude Giraud explained during the opening of the new cellar one and a half years ago. As a result of the long aging of the vins clairs on the full lees and the partly excessive use of new oak, the cuvées from Henri Giraud have a very particular style whose oak influence is prominent rather than the expression of fruit and terroir. Here, the Argonne Forest seems to be the terroir, and it's up to you if you like the full-bodied, intense, structured, rather vinous style or not. Although I have never tasted really matured wines after disgorgement, I suppose the best will age very, very well and will always be great wines with food. Also, compared to the wines I tasted some years ago, the oak influence has been reduced a bit. The wines have become purer, finer and fresher, at least that's my impression without having tasted the styles side by side. There are some less-oaky cuvées produced here as well. Just try the impressive Dame-Jane Rosé, the charming and finessed Esprit Nature or the delicious Hommage à François Hémart. At the end of last year, the 2008 Argonne Brut was released. It's a rare and spectacular cuvée that comes in equally spectacular packaging that was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Giraud called the box, which looks like a stylized tree, "the epitome of purity." If you can't (or don't want to) afford the fabulously expensive wine or simply can't find it the store, you should at least Google it! Getting it out of the box is an adventure for itself.
