Riesling Auslese Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2007 37.50cl

Intense salt, chalk, smoke and citrus as well as musky, narcissus and wisteria-like floral perfume are present already in the nose of Weil’s 2007 Kiedricher Grafenberg Auslese, which saturates the palate with deep pit fruit and citrus while bitter and tart elements from fruit pit and fruit skin help convey a persistent sense of invigoration and salt and chalk a sense of minerality, even as the wine takes on a honeyed richness which Weil seeks to assure me is – typically for this wine – the product of tiny, subtly-desiccated golden berries rather than botrytis. Given its sheer concentration despite lift and delicacy, and its unusual degree of vivacity, I would anticipate a quarter-century of satisfaction and stimulation here. Today, though, this shows marginally less elegance and organization than the Spatlese, and I would be disinclined to revisit it for several years.