93 Von Robert Parker
Its fruit sources spanning all of the prominent villages along the Cote des Blancs in which they have holdings is what prompted Larmandier-Bernier’s NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude L1009-12 to acquire its current name. (It was long simply referred to as the estate’s “Blanc de Blancs.”) Nutty, herbal suffusion of pear, lemon, and green zebra tomato makes for a succulently juicy as well as intriguing cuvee that contrasts sharply – no doubt as intended – with the corresponding “Latitude” bottling. Here we haven’t the aromatic fireworks – though a haunting evocation of flowered, grassy meadow emerges as the wine sits open – but there is an especially fascinating mid-palate exchange with, in part, ineffable elements of broadly mineral nature, leading to a finish of remarkable salivary compulsion and sheer length. This exceptional value in Champagne should merit following for at least 3-4 years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares morsellated into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays to such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply so as to have a means of “seasoning” that wood before it gets transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers believe in minimal settling of juice after pressing, and all of their wines get close to, if not longer than, one year of elevage before going to bottle for the secondary fermentation, though after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvee. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve contingents from the two previous vintages.<br/>
93 Von James Suckling
From the villages of Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus, the base here is 2012. With more chalk influence than latitude, this is powerful and linear. It has superb focus and depth, and the flavors run in a citrus spectrum, with some subtle baking spices, too. Compelling tension and drive. Drink now.
92 Von Wine Spectator
Lithe and graceful, this bright Champagne is refined and chalky in texture, displaying a lovely mesh of ripe apple, apricot, lemon parfait, biscotti and fresh ginger flavors. Drink now through 2019. 175 cases imported.
Its fruit sources spanning all of the prominent villages along the Cote des Blancs in which they have holdings is what prompted Larmandier-Bernier’s NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude L1009-12 to acquire its current name. (It was long simply referred to as the estate’s “Blanc de Blancs.”) Nutty, herbal suffusion of pear, lemon, and green zebra tomato makes for a succulently juicy as well as intriguing cuvee that contrasts sharply – no doubt as intended – with the corresponding “Latitude” bottling. Here we haven’t the aromatic fireworks – though a haunting evocation of flowered, grassy meadow emerges as the wine sits open – but there is an especially fascinating mid-palate exchange with, in part, ineffable elements of broadly mineral nature, leading to a finish of remarkable salivary compulsion and sheer length. This exceptional value in Champagne should merit following for at least 3-4 years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares morsellated into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays to such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply so as to have a means of “seasoning” that wood before it gets transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers believe in minimal settling of juice after pressing, and all of their wines get close to, if not longer than, one year of elevage before going to bottle for the secondary fermentation, though after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvee. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve contingents from the two previous vintages.<br/>
