The 2013 BÃ¢tard Montrachet Grand Cru, of which there are four barrels this year, has a strict, slightly discombobulated bouquet after the Charlemagne, as if it had forgotten its lines. Fortunately, the palate is crisp and taut with touches of peach and orange sorbet, a fine line of acidity and a pretty finish that lingers in the mouth. Fine, but not top-of-the-class compared to other growers.Â
Pierre Vincent has taken a steady hand to Domaine de la Vougeraie in recent years and in my mind, has begun producing some quite splendid wine from a strong portfolio of holdings, wines that hold their own in blind tastings. "It was not easy for biodynamic farming because there was a lot of rain and low temperatures and then there was the terrible hailstorm in the CÃ´te de Beaune. For whites it was difficult in Beaune and Charlemagne. But I am happy with the quality. The white are pure and clean, perhaps with a touch of reduction for hail-affected vineyards. But I am very happy with BÃ¢tard-Montrachet. The harvest was not easy. We started on 26 September, just before the rain that arrived on 1 October. I was lucky because all the white were harvested before the rain. Others harvested after and for the white that made it difficult for them. The balance between fruit and acidity is perfect for the whites. For the reds it was easier because it was not affected by hailstorm and I am very happy with the Nuit Saint Georges, Vougeot and Chambolle villages. The pH after malo was around 3.55 - a perfect pH after malo. I do more and more whole clusters, a minimum 30% but for the CÃ´te de Nuits it is between 50% and 100% whole cluster." This was a strong selection from Pierre, in particular I would draw your attention to a brilliant Charlemagne (renamed thus after being Corton-Charlemagne for many years) and a really quite awesome Charmes-Chambertin, one of the best that I tasted.